Just in case you didn’t notice, we streamlined the site considerably. The home page now opens with more of the content that you really go to on this site: our series of Evolution videos and reviews.  We’ve also revised the comments section and gone to a threaded mode.  Go ahead, discuss!

We’re not stopping here. In the coming months, we’ll be adding more features to the site as we transition from PinoyAirsoft.org to GoMilsim.com. Speaking of which, what is the deal with this new address and branding, GoMilsim.com?  More on that next time.

Technical Notes:

Reliability
Out of four purchased on December 2007, three had suffered some sort of failure by mid-2008. Unit 1 had its motor freeze up in the middle of a game. Field stripping showed that the wiring to the motor had come loose. Rewiring fixed the problem. Unit 3 had a fire selector that came loose despite repeated re-tightening. That unit also lost its butt plate which comes off easily with a minimum of pressure. Unit 2 stopped firing during a game. Disassembled it revealed a broken mount in the gearbox which would have required a complete overhaul. By 2009 only two out of the original four were operational. This is in stark comparison to our ten year old Tokyo Marui AK47. If that’s not apples to apples, we also had a three year old JG Beta Spetz which became the donor for Unit 2’s gearbox. We had banked on JG’s earlier reputation on deciding multiple units of this AK47. We were quite disappointed with the 50% failure rate.

Internals
This gun was a copy of the Tokyo Marui with a Type 3 Gearbox. The motor cage was a bit loose when attached to the gearbox. This was suspect to Unit 2’s failure.

The gearbox is a nice black color and uses torx screws to open the case. The innards include china gears that are over lubricated. It had a silver spring that’s softer than an m120. Our airsmith estimated strength to about SP110 or like the A&K springs after it’s settled. The spring guide was plastic and the piston head was already ported. The compression is good but the cylinder wasn’t. He was surprised to see that it used a cylinder that’s like a Type 2 but the hole was twice as large as the normal M4 cylinder. So in essence, the cylinder held less air than an M4 would but the barrel length would be for a closed cylinder. This may be the reason why the gun seemed to be lacking at the edge of its range as it got a suckback from the muzzle when the BB came out due to a matched cylinder size.

The wiring to the butt stock was poor. Shrink wrap joined the two wires in a way that kept it from being pulled out easily due to its passing through a narrow portion of the inner stock and the fuse being blocked. The gearbox, butt stock and lower receiver had to be disassembled to expose the wiring. A minor thing for an experienced airsmith but quite annoying.

On a brighter note, the hop up had a graduated measure with labels so it was easy to remember the previous hop up settings that worked. Also the built in sector chip allowed for reliable feeding.

External
The foregrip was comfortable and the rubberized buttstock had a nice feel. Rails allowed for various attachments.

Transcript:

It matters not which part of the world you hail from, anyone with eyes can tell, THIS is an AK47.

Before you ladies get your panties in a bunch, take note, this gun is Tactical. How do we know its Tactical? It’s got a friggin Spetznas in the manual!

You could be a freedom fighter or a PMC. If the Spetznas like it it’s good enough for you.
Be happy gentlemen this kit comes with NEARLY everything you need out of the box. Just add ammunition then you can shoot 600 rounds to your heart’s content. And for you SPECIAL forces wannabees it does come with these luxuries. Doesn’t that make you feel good?

You pansies will love the buttstock on this … smooth as a babies behind.

Now I have heard some of you wannabe commandos whine that the JG A47 tends settle down to 313 FPS at 0.25g (348.67 FPS at 0.25g). I don’t want to hear you babies fault your equipment. If your issued A47 drops to 1.13 Joules over time, it’s down to your poor maintenance regimen, soldier. Such a situation, as any Spetsnaz will tell you, is easily made up for by spraying it on full auto, at 14.4 rounds per second.

Accuracy at 15 yards is–
Look, even if it shoots terrible 7cm groupings at 15 yards, it’s obviously your failing.
You’re not man enough to shoot this gun straignt.

Now, listen close, cause what I’m about to tell you can get a man killed. The major problem with the JG A47, its ugly secret, is its mismatched cylinder the hole is twice the size of a type 2! You might as well let all the air out, and it does.
Whatever genius left out the closed cylinder should win the Darwin award.

But don’t let me catch you blaming it for inconsistent grouping.

Nevermind that endurance tests show, a 2 out of 4 chance that the gun you’re holding
will fail in some catastrophic fashion. Survivors suffer rapid loss of power and are in need of an upgrade.
Consider yourself lucky if the Chinese factory put your unit together properly.

Dammit. Now you know too much. A Spetsnaz team is probably already inbound to take you down.
The world cannot know that JG A47 is not recommended for field use in any shape or form.

You better run now little man. And get a gun that works!

What do you think of the Jing Gong A47? Tactical or impractical? Let us know in the comments!

Hello and welcome to PinoyAirsoft Evolution 5. Tonight, it’s all about heavy metal and plastic rain as we look at the A&K Mk 43 Mod 0 / M60E4.

World War 2 in Europe taught the Americans a hard lesson in dealing with machine gun squads. So they sought to replicate and improve on the lethal German designs they fought against with the T44 prototype. The prototype led to the M60, a general-purpose machine gun meant to be the ultimate squad-level weapon. From conflict to conflict, it has evolved to keep up with modern war, until we come to the ultimate version, the M60E4 or the Navy Mark 43 Mod 0.

This isn’t the first airsoft version, but A&K are the first to mass produce an affordable one that isn’t made of plastic. This one is a metal monster that looks to live up to the ferocity of the real thing. And you can have it for the price of an iPod.

Bench Tests

Out of the box, it shoots at 407 FPS on 0.25, or a staggering 470 FPS on 0.20g. Or 2 Joules. That’s the maximum legal limit in Hong Kong. And unlike your garden-variety upgraded M4, it delivers that power in an unbroken hail of plastic death. An unrelenting 10 to 12 Rounds Per Second, on the standard battery. The hail just goes on and on and on.

Contrast this with the M249, where ROF slows down after 3 or 4 seconds. The 249 is for a boxer with finesse, pouncing with quick jabs. Meanwhile, the M60 is for a drunken brawler. It just corners you and punches you. Repeatedly. In the face.

This isn’t to say it’s messy and inaccurate. The 470 mm inner barrel delivers respectable 30 millimeter groupings at 15 yards.

Handling

The M60E4 has a vertical grip, designed to be fired in offhand stance, like a rifle. The revised bipod puts the center of mass below its pivot to make a stable shooting platform. Barrel release and handle are faithfully replicated nice touches but serve no real purpose.But the ambidextrous safety works and will come in handy.

The gas regulator actually controls rate of fire electrically. It’s a nice touch not even the high end VFC version can claim to have.

The Mark 43 is shorter than the standard M60. At a little shy of 1 meter in length, it’s actually as short as an M249 PARA with stock extended. Fully loaded, it weighs in at a solid 16 pounds.

The sound activated autowinding boxmag is also made solid, unlike the paper box VFC throws in. But unlike the M249 and more like older SAW designs, the box magazine sticks out awkwardly out on the left.

In The Box

A&Ks kit comes with everything you need to rock and roll. No extra batteries needed as the boxmag plugs in to the gun for power. About the only thing that’s lacking in this package is a couple of kilos of ammunition to fill up the boxmag. It’s all there, and everything is usable. And yes, even the user manual is useful, having been photocopied from a good source.

Teardown

Popping the top cover gives you easy access to the barrel-style hopup, which is not unlike on the 249. Teardown is an easy task, with everything but the gearbox readily disassembled without tools. Popping the top cover gives you easy access to the barrel-style hopup, which is not unlike on the 249.

Under the metal, you’d expect there to be some very scary upgrades. Outside the massive gearbox certainly looks solid and is also cleanly constructed. All the wiring into the gearbox is routed through a connector that plugs into the receiver.

The spring is longer than normal. The motor is heavily magnetized. The gears are nothing special but reassuringly well lubricated. The tappet plate, cylinder and piston are longer than normal.

Amazingly, the compression can only be described as appalling. It’s baffling how it even manages to do 2J. Another mystery is the hopup. Turning it even all the way up seems to do nothing to the BB flight path.

Now then the chinks in the metal monster’s armor are showing. It gets worse.

Issues

Issue 1 – Boxmag Switch Location

The boxmag, a rare design innovation, is ruined by having the switch in the most awkward place it could possibly be. Even punching a hole through the ammo bag doesn’t remedy this issue, as the switch stays hidden behind the battery.

Issue 2 – Loose Front Set

More seriously, though, the front set, given time to bed in, has a tendency to wobble. With some stress, the screws can come off the body, which, being made of a weak alloy, tends to let the screws destroy the threading. In point of fact, we had to change out all the screws with common stove bolts to hold it together long enough to complete this review.

Issue 3 – Mag Mount Loses Thread

The problem extends further elsewhere. Putting stress on the magazine mount can cause one of the screws to shear off the receiver and later cause the entire mount to separate.

Conclusion:  Recommended With Reservations

In the end, we can only recommend the A&K Mk43 with some reservation. Out of the box it is quite a capable BB hose. But ultimately the A&K Mk43 is let down by all the shoddy materials used to keep it affordable. If it could only take as good as it dished out, this gun would actually be skirmishable.

Granted, it’s still the most powerful support gun you can get out of the box. That is, until the screws come loose.

Got an A&K Mk43 Mod 0? We’d like to hear your opinions in the comments!

Fortunately we’ve come up with this short guide, where we’ll run down the essential gear that you’ll need on a bivouac game to survive, sustain and succeed, or at least make your stay out in the woods as comfortable as possible, before your inevitable demise.

1. Old Reliable – Whatever your preferred tool, be sure to bring a battle-tested and proven weapon. The worst problem to have is a gun that quits on you before you’ve fired a single shot, after walking miles on a mission. This M4 is a safe choice, as you can get spare mags and parts easily, unless you’re playing the other side, in which case you might consider an AK47 variant. Railed weapons are not completely impractical, as it lets you carry other scouting gear (i.e. a scope for scout work, night vision optics for night fighting, tactical light for pitch black spaces).

2. Carry The World On Your Back – It’s important not to be overloaded on a long game, but to be effective you must be able to bring what you need to survive the environment. Rucksacks let you carry the extra stuff you don’t need quick access to on your back, such as sleeping gear, warm clothes and wet weather gear. They can also be easily dropped in case the situation calls for quick movement. This 3-Day Assault Pack has a lot of storage in its three split compartments and can carry additional pouches on the PALS webbing and rolled up sleeping bag on the bottom and side straps.

3. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate – Water is your most basic need, as in any physical sport. Make sure to bring a lot of it in water bottles, a canteen or a hydration bag such as this 3-liter bag. Your water requirements will vary depending on how much you sweat.

4. High and Dry – Keep your mission maps and other documents in a pouch that you can keep dry. You could also keep your real-world ID and bank notes here. Better yet, put them in a watertight bag with a zip-seal (a.k.a Ziploc), and you won’t have to worry about getting your personal effects waterlogged.

5. First Aid – Injury is inevitable in a game where survival means running, jumping and climbing on all kinds of uneven terrain while avoiding getting hit by projectiles. A small first aid kit would be easy to drop into your gear. Your equipment can damaged too, so keep a multitool handy, or at the minimum have room for the universal tool (see #10).

6. Lock and Load – Bring as many magazines as you need, but no more than that, and keep your mags close at hand. Web gear and chest rigs are the lightest options available for carrying ammunition. If you can plan for how many magazines you need at the ready in a firefight, and if the rules permit, you can carry additional BBs for reloads in a BB bottle or bag, elsewhere on your person.

7. Marching On Your Belly – Water alone will not sustain you for an entire game. Candy bars and energy bars are a quick way to get some sugars into your system. It doesn’t replace a full meal, so you will want to carry something more substantial in the form of an MRE (in this case, Beef Stew) or sandwich for restoring your energy. The protein in a beef stew meal will make you feel sluggish, though, so save the big meals for a long lull in the fighting.

8. Never Lost – Even if you can’t follow a map, an integrated survival compass and whistle can do you a lot of good. Even better insurance against becoming a straggler is a long-range radio or a cellphone if there is reception.

9. The Pen Is Mightier – Milsim events can get incredibly complex, and it can be critical to have a way to record information. Sure, you can memorize the coordinates of the enemy base in your head, but after walking ten hours back to base to report your findings in person, you might find it hard to jog your memory.

10. The Universal Tool – Duct tape, or US 90MPH tape is the tool that holds the universe together. Trust us, you’ll find a million uses for it, from taping up a broken rifle stock to blindfolding POWs. Take a stiff piece of cardboard and roll some tape around it to make a flat card of duct tape that you can store easily.

Now, this will probably be the minimum you could expect to carry. Depending on how long the deployment is and how far your resupply is, you may add to this extra water, food, and ammunition to sustain you for days of fighting. Stuff specific to your environ like sunblock, mosquito repellent, or antivenom could be essential or even required. Travel at night will call for night vision optics or some artificial light source like flashlights or chem lights, in case it is not allowed or illegal to start fires.

Got any campfire stories to share?  We’d like to hear them in the comments!

Airsoft can be played safely, as long as the players have a healthy respect for the momentum of their projectiles and of the environment they are playing in. Here we’ll cover the safety rules you need to keep in mind while playing the game.

Gun Safety

The rule you should always follow is to treat airsoft guns as if they are real firearms. The four rules of gun safety also apply to airsoft guns and should be observed at all times.

1. Treat all guns as if they were loaded.

More accurately, you should personally inspect the gun to check if it is unloaded. Even when a person has inspected a gun and handed it to you, do not feel silly about inspecting it again yourself. Once in your hands, the gun is your responsibility. If you do not know how to check that the gun is unloaded, you should put it down.

You should not assume that the gun is unloaded once the mag is out of the gun. Airsoft AEGs typically feed up to four BBs the moment you slam a fully wound magazine into the magwell, with one round already chambered even after you’ve dropped the magazine. Unlike real firearms, most airsoft guns do not have to be ‘charged’ or ‘cocked’ before a round is ready to be fired. A lot of electric and gas rifles cannot be decocked, so you should unload the chambered round by firing it at a safe place, and disconnect the battery or gas source when unloading the gun.

2. Never point the muzzle at anything you do not intend to destroy.

Though airsoft muzzle velocities are considered low, they can still cause injury or blindness if it hits someone in the eye. In and out of a game you should always be aware of where the muzzle of your airsoft gun is pointing to avoid any damage if it accidentally discharges.

Even when a gun is unloaded, you should always practice proper ‘muzzle discipline’ and keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction when not firing at a target. It is also easy to get careless when unloading a weapon. You should ensure that it is not pointed at or ricochet at anything that you could damage.

3. Keep your finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.

Accidental firing can harm your teammates, yourself, or an unintended target. You can trip, or get surprised and tense up on the trigger at the wrong moment and you may end up shooting your friends in the back or yourself while the gun is holstered.

When not firing, your trigger finger should be at the ready position, above the trigger guard but held straight and not wrapped around the trigger.

4. Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it.

Besides knowing that your target is indeed a foe and not a friend, you should also be sure not to shoot at an unprotected target. You should not shoot at anyone not wearing proper safety equipment. This includes noncombatants and the occassional idiot who removes his safety goggles while in the game. You should not shoot at animals. Even in a self-defense situation, the worst you can do with an airsoft gun is further agitate an already enraged animal.

You should also consider what is around your target. Even when you know what you are shooting at, you could still hit someone or something you did not intend if your shot goes astray. While BBs rarely travel to even half the distance a real bullet can achieve, or penetrate most solid structures, anytime the BB can go where you cannot see there is a danger that you could hit something you do not intend. It is not unheard of for a BB to ricochet, or in some instances penetrate thin cover.

For airsoft, this also means you should not blind-fire or shoot without deliberate aim. Spraying automatic fire with your gun extended out while hiding behind cover may be an acceptable tactic for insurgents, but it is not acceptable in airsoft games and can get you ejected from a game.

Protective Gear

Your eyes are the most vulnerable parts of your body. Even when fully covered, they remain exposed, and even a plastic BB could render you temporarily blind. For this reason, the minimum protection you are required at most airsoft gamesites to wear eye protection in the form of ballistic goggles or glasses. These are often made of thick transparent polycarbonate material able to deflect or absorb. Wire mesh goggles are also used and permitted but there is some debate over the safety of these when some BBs can chip or fragment on impact.

The best ballistic safety eyewear carry ANSI or MIL STD specifications. Paintball masks are made to meet or exceed the minimum ANSI Z280.3, AS1067 or EN1836 specifications, and are often acceptable. So are goggles and glasses used by the military or police that are designed to stop shotgun pellets. Ballistic eyewear issued to or procured by the military and law enforcement meet and exceed ANSI Z87.1 or MIL STD 662F.

Most gamesites in the Philippines require you to wear a full face mask, which also protects from injury to the nose, teeth, mouth and ears.

Not required, often neglected, but always a good idea to have is a pair of good shoes with thick soles and sufficient ankle support to avoid sprains and foot injuries. Surplus military issued combat boots are a favorite option but may be less comfortable for long treks through rough terrain, so hiking shoes are also used and accepted. You should always wear shoes in the proper size to avoid accidents.

A full BDU is not necessarily required but most airsofters are fully protected in standard military uniform that usually has long sleeved tops and long pants. You can even go ‘Rambo’ style if you don’t mind battle scars. Padded vests and ‘armor’ are not a strict necessity, but some airsofters do wear them for playing in close quarters to lessen the impact of BBs, or for reasons not related to safety (i.e. carrying extra gear easily, looking cool).

Environmental Hazard

Airsoft games are often played in areas that replicate a modern battlefield. Some sites are urban war zones, while others are dense forests or jungles. Both can be potentially dangerous if you play unaware or without respect for the hazards..

1. Rough Terrain and Failing Structures

Out in the wild, travelling on-trail is a hiking safety rule, but ‘tactical’ considerations mean that airsofters will often be off the usual paths and travelling through the rough stuff. While running and gunning, it’s also easy to forget to glance at the ground and avoid obstacles that might trip you.

In abandoned buildings that usually host MOUT or CQB games, the risk of collapsing structures is ever present.

Respect the boundaries of a gamesite. Some areas may be off limits because they present a hazard to you, or it may expose bystanders. If the boundaries are not explained to you, ask the gamesite marshalls. When possible, know from the gamesite organizers or those familiar with the area what possible hazards to be mindful of. When entering an unfamiliar area, be cautious and mind your footing.

Durable shoes, again, are good insurance from injury. Gloves, knee and shoulder pads can also save you from some cuts that could get infected. But besides these protections, you should prepare for possibly injury by bringing at least a basic personal medical kit with antiseptic cleanser and a bandage for wounds.

2. Wildlife

Mosquitoes can carry disease and rabid animals such as rats and snakes can poison or even kill. Poisoned plants and insects also abound that could give you a bad day or trigger an allergy.

If the information is not already volunteered, ask a local or the gamesite organizers what to prepare for and what to bring. Know the plant and animal life in your ‘area of operation’ so you can prepare (i.e. bring repellent, antidote) and avoid the places they frequent or live in.

3. Getting Lost

Of course, you can avoid getting lost by carrying a compass and learning how to use it. Some sprawling sites have huge areas, or are unbounded from the rest of the wilderness, and gamesite marshalls and organizers will often be vigilant about ensuring you are safe inside the game area. But even if you stay inside the bounds of a gamesite, it is possible for you to lose your bearings and get disoriented.

Bring a mobile phone and/or radio to contact your teammates or marshalls in case you are lost or injured and unable to move. You can also bring survival whistles or other signalling equipment in case these forms of communication are unavailable. It is also best to travel with a buddy or a larger group, in case your or someone else is injured and someone needs to find help.

Also, whether in-game, before playing, or even before going to an airsoft gamesite, give someone you know information on where you are going and when you plan to return, so that someone will be know to inform the authorities if you do not return as expected.

4. Heat Exhaustion

Typical battle gear is made of high density nylon, and when geared up in full battle dress, you may be wearing layers of this non-breathable equipment. You may even be wearing a mask that restricts breathing. Bundled in this way, you will likely sweat much more than usual after some running or other physical exertion. This puts you under the very real threat of dehydration and heat exhaustion.

Be sure to have drinking water on hand, in a canteen or a hydration bladder, and make it a point resupply when you run out. Drink small sips when possible, and don’t wait to feel thirsty. You should consider water as your most basic survival supply, even more important than ammunition.

Know your own limits and the signs of heat exhaustion. These are:

• Heavy sweating
• Paleness
• Dizziness
• Muscle weakness
• Muscle cramps
• Nausea or vomiting
• Headache
• Fainting

Your pulse may be fast and weak, and breathing may be fast and shallow. If you feel any of these symptoms, take yourself out of the game and find treatment such as:

• Cool off with cold, non-alcoholic beverages.
• Find a comfortable spot to rest, or even an airconditioned environment.
• Remove vests, load bearing gear and heavy clothing and strip down to lightweight clothing only.
• If possible have a cool shower or bath.

Airsoft and the Authorities

Realism is both the attraction and the problem with airsoft replicas. Authorities have dealty with the problematic aspect of realistic airsoft guns in different ways. The safety concerns have been debated, the possibility for criminal use, however absurd, has also been considered. But the fact remains that airsoft guns do a good job of looking like real firearms. The details may not be faithfully reproduced, but at a quick glance, the 1:1 scale and profile of an airsoft rifle makes them hard to distinguish.

The uncommon common sense that needs to be applied here is that you should always treat airsoft guns as if they were real firearms. It follows that you should not do anything with an airsoft gun that you would not do with a real firearm. Brandishing it in public or threatening someone with it, even as a prank, is a sure way to land yourself in jail, or worse, shot by the police or in self defense by someone carrying a real firearm.

Regulation of airsoft guns varies from country to country. Some have no regulations, and treat airsoft guns like any toy gun. Others have specific rules for replica firearms that are also applied to airsoft guns, or special rules specific to airsoft guns, such as a maximum allowed muzzle velocity (i.e. 1J is the maximum in Japan) or restrictions on the materials and markings of the gun (i.e. Portugal and most US states require an orange painted tip). Be aware of the local laws and know what is permitted in an area before travelling there with an airsoft gun.

In the Philippines, under the new Implementing Rules and Regulations (PNP Circular No. 11), airsoft guns are regulated by the Philippine National Police Firearms and Explosives Division. The important points of the amended IRR are:

• Airsoft guns are considered a ’special type of airgun’, and, while not considered real firearms, they must be registered with the PNP-FED.
• Only individuals aged 18 or older can be registered as owner of an airsoft gun.
• After the amnesty period*, the airsoft guns must be purchased from registered dealers with an official receipt serving as proof.
• The airsoft guns must have an orange painted muzzle or tip, and muzzle velocity cannot exceed 550FPS when used with 0.20g BBs. The registered serial number must be affixed to a conspicuous part of the gun.
• When transporting a registered airsoft gun to and from the owner’s registered residence, a Permit To Transport must be secured, and the gun must be kept in a case.
• Import and export of airsoft guns require a permit and must be coordinated with the PNP-FED.

*The amnesty period ends on July 8, 2008.

When faced with a lawful search or checkpoint in the Philippines, do not attempt to hide your airsoft gun or evade the authorities. Instead, be prepared to present a Certificate of Registration (CR), and when travelling, a Permit To Transport (PTT), should the authorities question you on it. As long as you fulfill the requirements of the IRR, there should be no reason for the authorities to confiscate your guns or take you into custody.

Safety Is Everyone’s Responsibility

Like any sport, we take risks playing airsoft. It’s all part of the game, but unnecessary risks leading to mishaps only spoil the game. We can avoid the unnecessary ones by respecting our guns, our environment, and other airsofters.

At its core, airsoft is a non-contact game of tag, where players are tagged out of play when hit by a plastic BB pellet fired by an airsoft gun. Embellishments on the rules of the game have produced major variations in the game types, but it is closest to the sport called paintball. Airsoft is immediately differentiated from paintball by its decisively militaristic theme, so airsoft guns are almost invariably replicas of real firearms, and players usually don military uniforms and gear imitating police, soldiers or even insurgents. Airsoft game mechanics have developed further beyond the concept of ‘paintball with replica firearms’. Here we’ll get into the basics of what airsoft games are about and how they are played.

Game Types

Variations in airsoft games can be summed up into these categories:

1. Speedball

Speedball is probably the simplest variation of play. This is usually played between two sides with equally balanced numbers, faced off on either end of a playing field. The objective is to tag out all of the players on the opposing side. A player who is tagged out is instantly out of the game and must leave the playing field for the remainder of the game. Speedball games can also further have a time limit, and when exhausted, the side with the most players wins.

This is a high speed game, usually lasting only minutes, and mirrors the mechanics of the paintball game of the same name. Many games are played in this way because it requires only a small playing field.

2. Skirmish

Skirmish games, also called ‘meeting engagements’, are usually played with two sides, with the objective of tagging out all of the players on the opposing side. When the sides are unbalanced, one side, usually the outnumbered side, can be designated as the defender and can set up positions in the playing field before the other (attacking) side enters the field.

It is differentiated from Speedball almost only by the size of the playing field, but also by the duration of the game. Skirmishes are usually played in large areas where sides are not even within visual range of each other at the start, and it usually takes some time before players on opposing sides begin to encounter each other at the effective ranges of their airsoft guns.

3. Objective-Based Games

Objective-based games add one or more ‘win’ or ‘lose’ conditions to the basic Skirmish rules, so that one side can win by achieving the objective, or tagging out all the other side’s players.

Capture The Flag (CTF) adds the objective to steal the ‘flag’ of the other side. The ‘flag’ usually also marks the ‘base’ of that side. In some variations the flag must be brought back to the side’s base, in others just stealing or touching the opponent’s flag is enough. Plant The Bomb can be considered the reverse of this. Instead of ‘flags’, one or both sides must bring a ‘bomb’ into the opponent’s ‘base’.

Rescue the Hostage and Protect the VIP games substitute ‘flags’ for players who must not be hit. The hostage or VIP must be brought to a Safe Zone for the rescuing/protecting side to win.

4. Milsim

The mechanics of a Milsim event essentially boil down to achieving objectives, but ‘role-playing’ elements and special rules are also added that aim to recreate the feel of a military combat scenario. Players join teams with roles that have different game mechanics (e.g. a ‘medic’ can bring tagged players back in play). Teams of players may have assigned missions that achieve critical objectives in the scenario, or objectives that are requirements to move on to the next objective.

Milsim games often require that players imitate the look and weaponry of a military outfit and impose a limit on the ammunition that players can carry to a number that is more realistic. ‘Lowcaps’ or low-capacity magazines that carry around 50 rounds are usually required, versus ‘midcaps’ and ‘highcaps’ that carry hundreds of rounds.

Milsim events are also typically ‘bivouac’ events that run for one or more days continuously, so that play is not only done day or night and in any weather.

Counting Hits

Regardless of the game type, the constant rule in the game is that once you are hit, you are out of the game. But there are some variations in what is considered a hit that tags out or ‘kills’ a player.

1. Direct Hit

Part of a player’s body has been hit. Some variations require that certain parts of the body such as the torso are hit. Head hits are also usually counted as hits that tag out or ‘kill’ a player but discouraged for safety reasons. Hits to equipment worn by a player (i.e. a backpack) may or may not be counted, but typically are.

2. Ricochet

When a BB bounces off a structure or some other obstacle before hitting a player, it is considered a ricochet. Most variations do not consider this a ‘kill’.

3. Gun Hit

Part of the airsoft gun is hit instead of a body part. Most variations do not consider this a ‘kill’.

4. Surrender/Knife Kill

When two players are too close to each other, Surrender or Knife Kill rules allow players to tag out or kill an opponent without hitting him with a bb, by instead tapping the player or demanding the surrender of the player.

This is often adopted for safety reasons, to avoid causing serious injury. Some airsoft gamesites even make it a rule that when a minimum distance is between two players.

In case both players spot each other at the same time and could shoot each other, some variations consider this a ‘mutual kill’, and both players are tagged out.

5. Friendly Fire

When a player is hit by a player on the same side, this is considered ‘friendly fire’. Most variations consider this a ‘kill’ as a penalty to the side as an incentive to encourage players to correctly identify their targets.

The Honor System

Regardless of the game format, airsoft is highly dependent on a code of honor that players must adhere to. Unlike paintball, hits from plastic BBs do not leave a residue marking the hit, so airsoft is based on the assumption that the players are honest and will recognize and acknowledge that they have been hit. Breaching this honor often carries the consequence of a player being ejected from the game, or even banned from a gamesite.

Certain behavior inconsistent with this code of honor usually fall under these categories:

1. Going Zombie

The act of intentionally ignoring hits that ‘kill’ has been called many things. Players are called ‘zombies’, ‘mummies’ or ‘golems’ if they ignore hits or return to play after getting tagged without being ‘revived’, as provided by the game’s rules, or as allowed by a marshall.

2. Hit Calling

The act of accusing a player of intentionally ignoring hits that ‘kill’ is not as equally frowned upon, but is equally a breach in honor and disrespectful of other players. Typically only marshalls are allowed to call a player out for being hit.

3. Dead Men Talking

The act of providing or relaying information to players when you are already tagged out is often considered cheating, as ‘killed’ players should not participate in the game while tagged out.

Remember The Basics!

As airsoft grows in popularity, more and more new players are added to the ranks, and different playing styles are introduced. The challenge for game organizers and game players is to ensure that the games are conducted fairly. Key to everyone enjoying the game are the basics: know the rules of the game being played, pay attention to your hits, and always be honorable and honor your opponents.

Technical Notes:

Internals

Like the Tokyo Marui gun that it’s borrowed from, the Galaxy MP5K has a Version 3 gearbox. The hopup is a push-pull adjustment instead of a barrel or wheel type. Unfortunately it’s hidden inside the handguard and will not be easy to adjust in the field. The barrel is 110mm in length compared to 141 in the MP5K PDW and 229mm in a standard MP5 variant. It seems to be of a good quality overall and manages to be about as good as the longer barrel in the standard variant, and even accurate enough to match with a stock M4 CQB barrel at 30 meters.

All told the package adds up to 310fps at 0.20g or 0.89 Joules, with accuracy only just keeping shots inside the outermost ring of our test target (77mm off the center of mass). This level of performance should serve well in the CQB or even jungle arenas where engagement distances are close, but would be decidedly underpowered for the open field.

Reliability

Finding mags that feed well with this gun has been the main challenge. Galaxy’s own 200rd hi-cap feeds reliably, but being a bit of an off-brand, Galaxy mags are harder to come by, than, say JG mags. But slap a fresh JG hi-cap in there and feeding gets dicey. A period of break-in is needed before the JG mags start to provide any sort of reliable feeding. An old Tokyo Marui lowcap fed well enough, but as lowcaps go those really go fast.

Otherwise Galaxy has done a good job keeping power levels tamed to ensure this gun just keeps on going, even when used primarily as exercised by our wantonly reckless field test team, for wild bursts of sustained full auto fire. It has not quit once since we had it in for long term testing.

Externals

Outside, the Galaxy G.5K is a fairly accurate copy of the Tokyo Marui version, so it doesn’t break any new ground on the realism front. Token trademarks that denote the caliber of the weapon are littered around the plastic body. Caliber notation is even carried down to the metal hicap.

As a model of the MP5K and not the PDW, the gun features a cutdown front with no visible flashhider, and it has no stock but instead has a sling swivel for attaching the gun to a one-point sling or a harness. A forward vertical grip is incorporated into the design of the handguard.

Other parts of the gun including the front and rear sight, cocking handle, and pins are metal. The pins are reinforced and have a locking mechanism usually seen in AEGs of higher end manufacturers. The metal on the hicap is prone to scratching on the finish, which could be a minus for some and a plus for others. The plastic is good old ABS and should survive a few scrapes.

Style

The whole point of the MP5K is the small form factor. In real terms it’s prized for concealement, but for airsoft it has inspired players to find ways to incorporate this small AEG as part of a subload. MP5K dropleg holsters have been specially made for this AEG in an effort to drop it into a loadout as one would a pistol, but its use as a secondary weapon is a debatable point, versus an actual pistol which is still much more compact.

As a primary weapon, our assessment is that its exceptionally compact size and weight could conceivably be a crucial advantage for a quick run-and-gun game. However in some ways too much has been sacrificed to make it concealable that the design becomes impractical for airsoft play, as it challenges the player, as with a pistol, to manage controlled accurate bursts without a stabilizing stock. The PDW version that features a folding stock and a longer inner barrel, for a minimal addition in weight and size, would be the more level-headed choice. We also kid about the option of dual-wielding the MP5K, but must admit that dual wielding is less ‘tactical’ and more ‘hollywood’.

Got something to say about the Galaxy G.5K? Let us know in the comments!

Transcript:

Hello and welcome to PinoyAirsoft. Tonight we take a look at a lethal sub gun that can fit in a girl’s handbag: Galaxy’s MP5K.

Typical of ACM guns, the MP5K comes in a bland brown box. Oh, but this isn’t just any brown box. This one promises Super Powers!

What do you get in the little box? The super powered battery with an exclusive super empowering charger. Oh, and there’s a gun in there somewhere. But with a depressing lack of authentic trademarks. And to finish it off a cheesy 200 round hicap.

So, off to the chrono to see how super it really is. Ignoring the misfire, it spits out about 310fps at .2 grams. Equal to a staggeringly underwhelming .89 joules. Rate of fire is average.And the grouping our test target was, well, alright. In fact everything about this gun is alright.

Like a McDonald’s cheeseburger is alright. Scratch that, it’s a happy meal! It’s got all the junk of a regular cheeseburger only bite sized.

Plainly, Galaxy’s started us off all overhyped with this super power business. But do consider that in static tests it stacks up better than the full sized MP5s. ‘In our tests even manages to be as accurate as an A&K CQBR despite being whole inches shorter.

Which brings us to the point of the ‘K. It’s a much smaller version of the standard MP5 in many ways but it’s still better. The MP5K feels like a regular MP5 in every way but shorter. You can even give it the HK slap. Well, until you drop in the battery. It runs the whole length from the cocking tube all the way to the back.

Dropping the battery in involves pulling two reinforced pins off the back, one pin off the front and then a little struggle with the handguard. Battery goes into the back and out through the charging handle. You need to mind the wiring. The space is tight. And it’s easy to fray the wires by accident while pulling the handguard back in. By the way, the hopup adjustment is hidden under the handguard. Not the most convenient location.

We’re still of two minds on this weapon. As a primary gun it can certainly hold its own. But like any CQB weapon, you can get easily outranged by carbines and longer guns. And out in the field, and not in the lab, not having a stock to brace on makes it tricky to shoot precisely.

So what about as a backup gun? If we’re being honest it’s still much bulkier than a pistol, taking space away from your primary ammunition. And you won’t likely need more than a pistol if your primary weapon is reliable. So what is all of this downsizing good for? We’ll it’s for concealment, but useless if you’re not a double-O or a South American drug lord’s bodyguard.

So who’s going to appreciate the MP5K? Well, it is small and does fit in a handbag. So it’s perfect! For your girlfriend. Or your sissy teammate.

So what’s a REAL man like you to do? Well, if you must have it, get the PDW. Failing that just get two! No one will call you a sissy then!

That’s it for this show. Until the next Evolution.

Technical Notes:

Internals

It uses a specially designed gearbox with the standard XYT steel gears you see in A&K. And as usual it needs lubrication. Fortunately you don’t even have to break the gearbox fully open to do this. There are three screws on either side of the body which hold the gearbox in place. Once removed you can pull it up and out. This exposes the gears near the bottom. Cotton buds and silicone grease could be swabbed in small gobs. Then you can spread the lubricant around by running the gearbox.

The gearbox is self contained with the battery connectors sticking out. And the trigger mechanism is a relay switch on the bottom. Attaching a battery and pushing in the switch is sufficient to fire. Compared to Marui Type 2 gearboxes this is a neat package. Classic Army chose a good design for their M249, and with this being a clone it carries over well enough.

Of course there would be differences in build quality. This clone is half the cost of the CA version. The next competitor, Star, uses a plastic gearbox whereas A&K’s is metal. It should be able to take the abuse of an upgrade but we’re not too keen on modifying this unit immediately. As a squad support weapon, reliability and sustained fire is more important than power and accuracy.

Not that the gun is grossly inaccurate. Just the opposite, we were surprised that a full auto burst out of the box landed our 0.20 gram BBs within the black area (47mm radius) of our target. It isn’t sniper quality but it is impressive for a trench broom. On a bench, most of our M4s couldn’t match that spread going all out. This has a lot to do with the long brass barrel and the guides holding it steady. The metal body on the M249 is heavy and solid. There is no wobble added by holding the foregrip or using the front grip.

Our chronometer testing yielded an average of 399fps with 0.20 gram BBs. This is quite good for a stock gun. We typically test with 0.25 grams but decided against it given the significant price difference even in bulk.

The one part we have a complaint with is the hop-up bucking. The rubber is too soft. A Marui or Systema replacement would work well and is easy enough to install. The barrel has a quick release mechanism that lets the assembly pull out. The metal hop-up is held by a plastic clamp that fastens to the rubber bucking. Unfasten, slip out, replace, refasten, then reinstall.

Reliability

After three months of testing, we have had only one significant failure. This is great considering this is a support weapon and has been abused by an overrated battery. In a typical game day we would use all 2500 rounds plus an extra bag of about 2000. The longest sustained burst we’ve had was 30 seconds on an 11v Firefox lithium polymer. After that first long burst we’ve found that you had to rest the gearbox for half a second between successive bursts. On our third weeked out with the M249, it failed in the middle of a fight. Disassembly showed the barrel was jammed. We found a BB enveloped by the hop-up rubber. After replacing this, we had to change the fuse on the gearbox. It gave out thus successfully protecting the gearbox from damage. The gun had no other internal problems so far.

Externals

The M249 Para is mostly metal. The finish is good with no obvious dings, bumps, or scratches. The foregrip is ABS plastic which is held by a clip. To install and remove the stock 9.6V NiMH battery, you would pull on this plastic piece and could wear out over time. You have the option of removing the quick release barrel instead and installing from above. This is held together by a spring loaded metal clamp.

The collapsing stock is also metal. This piece is pulled out horisontally, twisted, and then locked into full extension. Do the reverse to collapse it.

One notable difference, aside from the barrel and stock type, between the Para and other versions is the inclusion of rails on the top cover. This makes it easier to install scopes and other extras as you desire.

Speaking of extras, you’ll want a sling and a grip as soon as possible. The gun is heavy at over 20lbs loaded. A sling helps you move around during long hikes to the end of the playing field. A ranger grip also helps with ease of bring the gun to bear. You could make do by using the bipod as a grip but this could be awkward to hold for extended periods.

In overall build, the gun is solid. You will want to make sure all the screws are fastened tight. In some cases, you might want to glue some of them with loctite. Our front sight was lost in a game and it has been a pain to find a replacement.

Owning and Playing

Owning the M249 is different from other AEGs. Aside from the mechnical considerations, you should do some introspection before committing to this. The weight of the weapon forces a change of playing style due to shifts in center of gravity. If you’d like to try it out, take a 20 pound barbel and try to run, stop then pretend to aim it. It is hard. Raising it quickly even while static takes effort. We’ve found that rising to fire and ducking is a losing proposition against opponents with plastic guns. Contortions to fire around corners are uncomfortable.

If you don’t focus on kills and think toward team tactics you’ll be happier. The M249 is intimidating with its sustained rate of fire and large capacity. The sound activated magazine means you’ll be able to keep it up for as long as the gun is loaded. And when that runs out, you could easily swap in a STANAG type from your buddies.

Once you’ve considered the change in playing style, there is the cost. Wielding a squad automatic means expending bags of BBs on a typical weekend. This is added to the original price of the gun. It is half the price of the CA M249 it is cloned from, but you could still buy about three M4s with the same money. You should really want it before committing. Your choices for spare parts might have to come from high-end manufacturers. And in some cases, might need to be special ordered off the internet.

All in all?

If you’re ready to graduate from Armalites, G3s, and AKs with box magazines, this might be the gun for you. Out of the box it will be playable, as soon as you get a pair of AA batteries, and should provide loads of fun. For the first time, a good metal in and out option for the M249 has arrived, without costing both arms and a leg.

How sharp is your SAW? Let us know what you think of the A&K M249 PARA in the comments!

Transcript:

A brown box. Many wonderous and exciting things comes in brown boxes.

Some even evoke emotions such as this … unbridled fear.

Now before you run in fright, let me welcome you to PinoyAirsoft’s review of A&K’s M249 Para.

Let’s get straight to the point. Inside that brown box you’ll find the SAW, a motorized box magazine, an 8.4v battery, a charger and some BBs. But you’ll want these extras to enjoy it: You need two AA batteries. A ranger grip is highly recommended. So is a purpose made sling. And for bling, some dummy rounds.

In looks it is quite authentic. The rear sight is fully articulated. You’ve got to love the collapsing stock. On the front is a mount to bolt a grip or a base. You have an integrated bipod. There’s a moving though non functional knob for the gas block.

The barrel changes out like the real thing. Just don’t try to use it as a carry handle. It’s not meant for it.

The box magazine takes some practice to load. It’s a bit awkward as you need to feed the loader before mounting the mag to the gun. Once you have it in, the body opens to load dummy rounds.  It’s also where you’ll find the hop up dial.

The box mag can be set to “on” for loading, and “sound” activated for play. Don’t forget to turn it off when you’re done. The battery goes inside the front grip with small type connectors. Only small type batteries will fit internally. It’s an exact clone of the Classic Army design. Lastly, the fire selector switch goes from safe to full auto. With that together you can rock and roll to a consistent 399fps. Furthermore its surprisingly accurate with groupings averaging 47mm. This is thanks to retaining rings holding the one piece barrel to a solid frame. The brass barrel itself is 510mm long which matches that of a Marui M16.

If it weren’t for the weight it could be a marksman’s gun. It’s grunt happily heavy. At over 20lbs you need to be physically fit to wield it. Unless you have John Rambo arms, snapshots won’t be easy. The recommended sling and grip eases the load for us mere mortals.

This gun definitely requires a different mindset. You can’t run fast or hard lugging this monster. And you’ll never be quicker than a guy holding an AK. As a support gunner your job is to pin and herd the opposing force to where your friends can nail them. It takes a giving character to shell out hundreds of rounds for his buddies to make the kill.

If you think you’re that kind of person, be sure you can afford to own it. The box magazine holds about 2500 rounds. You’ll need to buy lots of BBs if you use it right. And though this clone is the cheapest M249 in the market, it still costs three times what you’d spend on a good ACM M4. Closer to the realm of mere mortals for as long as there are no major breakdowns.

In three months of testing, we suffered two faults.

The first you can avoid by using the stock battery and changing your hop-up rubber to Marui or Systema. We loaded an 11v lipoy into the gun to test reliability in high ROF. In the middle of a fight the gun started to seize up every bursts then stopped altogether. A&K is notorious for the soft rubber used in their hopup. The high ROF caused a BB to snag and completely roll up and jam the barrel. Fortunately the fuse stopped the gun before the gearbox could be damaged. The rubber bucking was replaced along with the fuse and we were back in business. Our second fault was the loss of our front sight. It was lost during an outdoor skirmish and had to be replaced. We had the choice of getting parts from the high end manufacturers or adapt a plastic piece from a Star. We chose the plastic and regret losing the original metal piece.

Two faults, yet both recoverable.

For maintenance, make sure to lubricate the gears. It’s a simple as removing retaining screws from the body and swabbing through the port of the gearbox.

That all together its a fantastic gun to own, if you’re right for it. The M249 Para isn’t a gun for everyone. It’s for the selfless special breed of airsofter with pockets deep enough to afford the expense and the commitment to wield on the playing field.

That’s it for now. Until next time.