In the new world of airsoft GBBRs, there is no talking about WA without mentioning WE, and many a debate have been done on the merits of the WETTI AWSS system over the Western Arms system. The crew check out what WETTI has to offer the gas blowback addict with their replica of the unique KAC PDW to draw their own conclusions.

Technical Notes:

Internals and Externals

WETTI offer a number of variants of the KAC PDW, with and without trademarks, in some color options and all in metal alloy. Even with the trademarks-less version we reviewed, the build quality and materials were very good. Construction is nearly all metal from the barrel to the stock (only the pistol grip is plastic), but it manages still to be very lightweight and compact. Inside as well as outside, the Advanced Weaponry Simulator System (AWSS) KAC PDW feels well built and incorporate some nice features such as what should be a more efficient closed bolt (more on this later) and a hammer with a roller bearing, and internal construction that is claimed to be CO2-ready (you must buy CO2 version magazines or a CO2 package).

The PDW magazine has a plastic shell as on the real PDW. The included M4 STANAG magazine has a metal shell. Both are lighter than the WA system M4 magazines.  WETTI seem to have traded lightness for mag capacity, as both magazines can load only 30 rounds compared to 40 to 50 on most WA-style magazines, and seem to only charge enough for that many rounds. The magazines, being of their own design, are of course incompatible with the WA system.

As already mentioned, the KAC PDW initial version had a closed bolt design, just as with their first AWSS models (M4 and SCAR). WETTI eschewed  accuracy for better reliable and respectable power output, and the system delivers power. Our unit produced between 1.8J (390FPS @ 0.25g) to 2.08J (420FPS on 0.25g) in sub-tropical climate. However the PDW suffers from a lack of precision, producing very dismal 22cm or worse groupings. It is possible on the unit we tested that the 275mm brass inner barrel was either defective or maybe just too short to handle the amount of air being fed.


Running on green gas for up to 700 rounds did not expose any issues or weakness in the parts or construction. The PDW just kept shooting hard and survived our abuse, and we did our best to abuse it, not hesitating to lean on the full auto. We noted in the progress of this review that some users reported cracks on the back of the receiver (probably from impact of the metal bolt) ultimately leading to the receiver breaking. However the only issue we confirmed in our long term test was a tendency for the receiver to develop a gap between upper and lower. It did not affect operation, though we cannot speak to how long this issue might persist before it becomes a concern.

We had only one failure with the magazines: a malfunction causing the magazine not to load any gas, but this was quickly remedied. This is apparently a commonly known issue, and the fix is simply to shake and load the magazine upside down to reseat the seals.

Owning and Playing

In nearly all aspets the AWSS KAC PDW is almost a completely satisfying gun to play. It delivers even better than the WA system on the blowback action. It is particularly loud as the metal bolt crashes into the back of the metal receiver. It remains fairly consistent in  continuous use, probably that much more reliably enough than WA system model. However the intractable problem with the KAC PDW is its imprecision. An otherwise great experience is ruined as one cannot predictably send rounds that actually hit a target unless the target is close enough perhaps for pistol range.  This is a personal defense weapon indeed.

The uniqueness of the WE magazine system is both advantage and disadvantage for the AWSS system. The lightness makes it easier to carry more magazines. The design seems fairly resistant to getting knocked around and is much more reliable than the WA magazines. However extra WE magazines are still a pricey proposition, as there are no budget-priced alternatives available unlike with the more popular WA system.

Note: WETTI released an Open Bolt Version, which brings the FPS down but improves the groupings. A conversion kit lets you change your old “closed bolt” PDW to the new system, however annoyingly the new system requires new parts to be installed in older magazines.  Be sure when purchasing magazines of what version you are getting, or you may end up with mags you cannot use.


The AWSS KAC PDW closed bolt is a great gun, until you have to shoot at something.  If you tend to play CQB and your environments always put combat in short ranges, perhaps you can consider the PDW as a viable main weapon.  In most other cases, the precision problem really makes the PDW unplayable.  If you want a gun that can be counted on in larger playing fields, look elsewhere. Otherwise if you must have the PDW, take a look at the Open Bolt version instead.

When you’re on the run and all alone, you need a bit of personal defense. Enter W.E.’s black edition of the Knights Armament PDW. This handsome package comes with the closed-bolt gas blowback gun,
a standard PDW magazine and a bonus STANAG magazine. You get a loader and a nice illustrated manual.

This gun comes in many variants. There are models with trademarks and without. Colors include black and FDE tan. Like the real gun it comes in 10 inch or long version and 8 inch or short versions. Not to be confused, this is the original advanced weaponry simulator system with a closed brass tube. The packaged magazine uses green gas. All parts are metal which makes it hefty.

Take down is straightforward. It is by design, similar to an M4 or M16. There are two receiver pins, front and rear. Rotate until right faces up. Push from the left side. Pull both pins out. Rotate the gun to normal position and lift the upper receiver from the lower. Pull out the guide rail then take out the bolt carrier which slides from the brass tube. Afterwards, slide out the charging handle. The handle, bolt and guide rail form a unit which attaches to the brass tube. Two screws hold the barrel assembly. A set of hex keys will be needed. Use an anticlockwise movement to remove the screws. The front screw should be the longer piece. With both screws removed, slide the barrel to the front. The inner barrel extends all the way to the flashhider with a length of 275 millimeters. The lower receiver houses the complete trigger mechanism. One odd feature is the roller bearing on top of the hammer.

FPS is about 450 adjusted for 0.20g. Rate of fire is high at 19 rounds per second. But here’s the fly in the ointment: It was a dismal performer at our 15 yard test with only two rounds out of fifteen hitting the paper. Unless you’re a member of the Imperial Stormstroopers, this would be a poor field gun.

For CQB purposes and no wind you have decent chances of hitting what you’re aiming at. If you insist on using it out in the field, you’d have to get very close! That’s not the only trouble with the gun. The strange BB loader is terrible even with two people trying to load it. Get a pistol loader after market and you’ll be happier.

For long term reliability, we observed some receiver wobble at 5 months which is normal even for real steel and doesn’t affect performance. The glaring problem with this unit is excess gas discharge. On a good day it may output a consistent 2.06J. But it’s hardly consistent and usually averages 1.8. We suspect that the power from the magazine is more than what the 275mm barrel can control. If not for that, this gun would be excellent.

It’s a pretty gun. Nice to display and to hold. In the limited scope of close quarters it could perform. The crisp recoil noise and nice finish make this unit fun. But I wouldn’t replace my AEG for it if I actually want to score.

That’s it for this evolution. See you next time.

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Evolution 7: JG M4A1 Gas Blowback Rifle

On September 9, 2010, in Evolution, Featured, by Mike

What price for milsim-level realism? With the Jing Gong/Golden Eagle M4A1 GBBR, the price is very right, and very tempting.  The PinoyAirsoft/GoMilsim team couldn’t resist hopping on the Gas Blowback Rifle wagon.  Lucky they took some videocameras along for the ride!

Technical Notes:

Internals and Externals

Jing Gong/Golden Eagle has just about produced a direct clone of the Western Arms M4A1 GBBR system, give or take some tolerances here and there. The differences in the materials used and quality control does knock overall quality down a notch, but overall fit and finish still compare favorably to the original Western Arms unit and its clone contemporaries such as the AGM.

Deviations from the mold are on the whole for the better. The system is built to be run on green gas, so everything from recoil spring to hopup is geared for that, so much so that the JG GBBR can hardly cycle on 134A gas. The inner barrel installed is M4A1 length unlike on the WA, and the extra 4 inches or so of barrel length lend the JG more power out of the box, around 1.8J average versus the 1J of the WA, strictly tempered for Japan regulations. The quality of the barrel itself is nothing special and the fit of the hopup will not produce any surprising accuracy with 8cm groupings, so you are getting what you pay for in that regard.  The nozzle is made of brass so this part has not had any breakage typical of other M4 GBBRs. The bolt head is otherwise plastic while the carrier is itself metal.  JG chose to stick with the non-negative pressure design on this so inherits the harder blowback but less gas-saving characteristics as well. On the magazine, the screws and some details such as the pins and gas port rubber on the magazine are different, but on the whole the differences seem to have improved the strength of the unit.

The finish on the JG M4A1 plastic body won’t fool anyone up close.  The true-to-real proportions of all the components and the etched Colt trademarks are great, but ultimately the finish on the plastic is a dead giveaway.  Spraying over with a dash of camo paint could certainly help, but unless lightweight weapons are your priority, it’s only a matter of time before you’re craving a metal body upgrade. The plastic receivers themselves are strong enough to withstand most use, until you take a hammer to it and try to extract some pins, but to be fair these parts are plastic.

Inconsistencies come up in some small but frustrating ways.

Outside, the etching on the barrel is in the wrong place. The front collar and delta ring are different enough from AEG proportions to prevent drop-in replacement of the plastic M4A1 handguards with A&K RIS or RAS handguards. The plastic parts inside and out don’t have the same level of consistency from unit to unit; our own review unit had a stuck hopup, which on examination was caused by excess plastic on the hopup dial that wasn’t cut cleanly enough. Plastic also features on the bolt head. The metal parts are not all steel. Some alloy typical of clone airsoft guns was used for the external as well as important internal parts such as the trigger and hammer. The proportions of the bolt carrier assembly are said to be slightly smaller than on the other clone copies such as AGMs, so that an AGM bolt will not drop into the JG receiver.

All in all though it’s hard to be completely frustrated with everything wrong with it, as the overall fit of the parts plus the reliable magazine still produces a gun that runs well out of the box.


The reliability of a GBBR system is determined not only by the quality of the gun, but also of the magazine.  So to start with, the JG M4 GBBR magazine is a solid unit on green gas.  We experienced no leaking with our unit and misfeeds were rare, only showing up when the magazine is near empty of gas. We only had one unit to test long term, as unfortunately the JG mags are difficult to come by locally.  In comparison to EbayBanned-sourced mags (2 out of 5 that we picked up worked, while the rest had leaks or outright broken-from-factory parts), the JG mag is just about perfect.

The gun’s long-term reliability is not so good if skirmished as-is.  At over 500 rounds, the bolt catch starts to malfunction so that the gun continues to shoot even when all BBs are emptied.  At over a few thousand rounds the auto fire mode starts malfunctioning as well, outright unable to cycle after the first stroke and dumping all gas out of the mag in the process.  By the time this long-term review was done, more than 4000 rounds through the gun, the bolt catch is no longer able to hold the bolt back even when manually pressed down. Examining the bolt catch after all of this action shows the failure point is on the soft plastic patch on the otherwise metal bolt catch, which will have worn down to nearly nothing after constant use. We believe the plastics aren’t totally up to task for regular use, but not only is this ultimately the price paid, but the combination of plastic hopup, bolt head and bolt catch is also a holdover from the original WA design that hasn’t quite worked well endurance wise.

As with many GBBs and not just with the JG M4A1 in particular, and  in contrast especially to an AEG, the GBBR systems in general take much more effort, regular care and inspection to prevent these sorts of failure.  A more deliberate preventive maintenance regimen besides the occasional spray of silicon oil and gun cleaner might have kept the review gun running longer, but we do not believe it would have run much longer on completely stock parts.

Owning and Playing

The price is a big factor in considering owning the JG M4A1 GBBR. At around $100 USD (5,000 PHP), it’s only twice the price of two M4 GBBR magazines from one of the bigger brands.  At the time it launched a year ago, JG had the most affordable M4 GBBR on the market, and it was worth getting for the magazine alone.  On to magazines, the JG works well with AGM and other clone mags, but surprisingly has trouble with one King Arms M4 GBBR mag that we tried.  Costs don’t get much lower than this in GBBR terms, until the inevitable breakdown of plastic parts used in the firing and recoil system of the gun itself.

Playing with the WA GBBR blowback system versus with an AEG is mostly about getting the recoil and having more realism in operating the gun.

One real performance benefit of the GBBR trigger mechanism is it gives the trigger pull a true lag-less mechanical response compared to an unoptimized AEG electrical trigger system. This should mean just slightly more immediate “effect on your target” and less time to target and “lead”, but it’s a welcome bit of improvement. Another side benefit, less money spent on BBs. We only slightly say that in jest.

Otherwise to run a GBBR is really to run with more handicaps:  power output goes down much more when running green gas in colder weather versus when running an AEG, ammunition is very limited not just because the gas magazines can carry only 50 rounds, but also because magazines are so expensive to purchase and maintain, and every mag you carry feels like a full magazine even empty.


With all the minuses laid out with green gas powered systems, it’s hard to consider it a practical choice to run a JG M4A1 GBBR versus the AEG systems that were built exactly to address many of those minuses.  But ultimately going with any GBBR system is going to be an emotional choice overriding the obvious handicaps.  Once you have tried a Gas blowback gas-in-mag system such as the JG M4A1 GBBR, the milsim freak in you is going to crave the realism, the feel of the mechanical trigger, the recoil and the crack of the bolt as it fires, even the more complicated reload with the working bolt catch.  The JG M4A1 GBBR is a low-investment way to have a taste of playing with a more realistic airsoft rifle.  All in all good fun while it lasts!

Airsoft is a sport of movement and skill, sometimes it’s a military simulation where scenarios and equipment are replicated to detail.
For an AEG wielder there is one detail that is mostly missing … a piece to complete the picture … recoil.

Gas blowback systems have been around for pistols a long time but rifle style systems are starting to gain numbers. Tonight we examine JG’s entry with the M4A1 GBBR.

The package comes with the replica M4A1, one STANAG style 50 round magazine, a pistol-style BB loader with adapter for top loading, some token BBs and a rebranded Western Arms Magna GBBR manual.

FPS on green gas was between 419 and 440 adjusted for .2grams or about 1.8Joules. Unlike the earlier Western Arms design this unit uses a 363 millimeter inner barrel. Grouping at 15 yards is about 8 centimeters, decent for a field gun.

Takedown is very similar to the real steel version. Push down the rear receiver pin from the left side. Flip the gun and pull until the pin locks. The pin is held by an even smaller retaining pin to prevent loss. Break the gun open by pulling from the top. This exposes the trigger mechanism on the lower receiver. Sliding back the charging handle removes the bolt. The bolt is comprised of a metal body, plastic head and brass nozzle. Don’t worry, there’s no firing pin unlike the real thing.

The upper receiver is held by the front pin which can be pushed down for removal. This piece takes some effort. The stock tube houses the recoil buffer which connects to the bolt.
It’s very much like the real steel design. Press the retaining clamp on the lower receiver to release. Then pull out the buffer along with the recoil spring. The recoil buffer is a plastic part which can be replaced after market. This recoil spring feels softer than the PDW’s that we’re also reviewing, it might explain why kickback is softer on this unit. The sliding lever on the stock allows complete removal.
Pull on the delta ring to remove top and bottom hand guards. This area can be augmented with a RAS kit.

The triangle sight has two pins that can be undone like in an AEG. You need to remove this to get to the gas tube. An armorer’s wrench is needed to undo the delta collar and barrel nut.
To remove the carry handle, simply twist the two thumbscrews, this exposes rails where you can attach a scope.

To put it all back together, just follow these instructions in reverse maybe you’ll get so good at it you can field strip blindfolded.

So is this gun good? Is it milsim?
Well, the gun is made in China, so it’s not made to be perfect. You just need to know what to expect. The bolt catch wears down after a few hundred shots. Even faster when you use full auto.
After two months this unit would fail to lock the bolt when the magazine went empty. Automatic mode broke at about 9 months. Not that you’d want to use it in automatic a lot. At 50 rounds per magazine you’re better off using single fire anyway. Changing magazines gives it a milsim feel. And having multiple mags hanging on your chest helps simulate the weight, if you can find them.
Other magazine makes like King Arms don’t line up correctly. If you can find the JG mags, grab them. They’re there most reliable part of this gun.

There are compatibility issues aside from quality control when it comes to WA-clone magazines. After market parts have to be approached with caution. Though this is one of if not the cheapest GBBR you can find, you get what you pay for. Expect to lay down more cash as parts wear down.

For updates and additional notes please visit our website at

That’s it for this evolution. Until next time.

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Evolution 1: KSC G23F

On February 8, 2008, in Evolution, by Mike

The crew kick off the Evolution series of video reviews with a tongue-very-much-in-cheek look at one of KSC’s most popular line of gas blowback airsoft pistols: the compact full-auto hand cannon. There is some explicit language in the beginning of the video so please be wary of children within earshot!

Technical Notes:

Glock doesn’t have a model 23F. They do have the 23 and 23C. Where the 23F departs from the real world 23/23C is the fire selector switch on the left side of the pistol. Settings are safe, semi, and full.

As the video demonstrates, the full auto setting is impressive. It’s also quite wasteful. Our review units were two used G23Fs. One used the standard HFC134A while the other used Green gas. The HFC134A gun started leaking after several uses of full auto mode. It’s yet to be repaired but is still able to fire in single. Our Green gas unit has been fired at full auto a few times but we prefer to keep it in single fire to lengthen its life.

Parts most likely to break down in this gas blow back pistol are the slide and valve. The slide is made of plastic and will wear down from the blow back action. A metal replacement part is a good option. It also gets rid of the unauthentic “G”.

Got a hand cannon of your own? Let us know what you think of the KSG G23F in the comments!


“Yo Ese! Move that fuckin’ car out of here!”

Hello and welcome to tonight’s edition of PinoyAirsoft. Tonight we examine the Glock 23F by KSC.

KSC, also known as KWA, added their own embellishments to this partly fictional pistol. On the plastic slide you will find a capital “G” rather than the Glock logo. And on the back is a metal select fire switch that you will never find in a real world gun. FBI agents might cringe at the thought. Nevertheless it’s solid and pretty.

“Should you shoot it in the conventional way, right?”
“Sige.” (OK)
“Like this?”

Now if you insist on playing gansta style, we’re happy to say the Glock will fire sideways. Whether or not you can hit anything is up to the wind.

“Kicks hard, error.”

Incidentally you can use green gas without modification. But expect your parts to wear out faster.

The BBs that come with the gun are .20, but for accurary we prefer .25s. On .25 gram BBs it clocks up to a respectable 300fps. You won’t outshoot an AEG wielder but that’s not the point.

Its main charm is a wasteful yet aesthetically pleasing full auto mode. With one pull you unload 22 rounds in 2 seconds. Be careful not to abuse it though.

For serious play, we recommend single fire. Full auto has a lot of recoil and increases the chances of breakdown.

The Glock 23F is a fantasy gun. It’s a pistol that calls out to a visceral need to have on on each hand. With this you can act out your favorite John Woo fantasy. It won’t matter if you don’t hit anything as long as you feel good doing it.

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